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Wednesday 15 September 2010
Monday 13 September 2010
New Tierra catalogue is here!
The winter catalogue from Tierra is here... Since i'm featuring on some pictures I had to go out in the sun in Chamonix and take a few photos of it. Fredrik Schenholm has taken many of the photos in the catalogue and it should be out in the stores soon..
Me, Fredrik Ericsson and Ulrika Asp in Chamonix. Winter 2010. Fredrik who passed away on K2 earlier this summer is missed by many and a big loss to the world community of skiing and climbing.
Brevent east face
Me on Ex Libris, 3 nice corner pitches. Photo: Fredrik SchenholmDid (most likely) the last work of the season last week, finishing at the summit of Mont Blanc in perfect conditions and weather. Thanks Wolfgang and Eva at Mountain Spirit Guides for great supply of work this summer. Celebrating the first day of autumn vacation together with Swedish friend and photographer Fredrik Schenholm. We went to the east face of brevent and climbed the classic corner Ex Libris 6b, Trad. Skipping the two last (loose) pitches… A bit chilly we worked our way up there and enjoyed a great day of climbing.
Tuesday 31 August 2010
Back in Chamoinix
After a little visit to Tromsö last week I'm now back and working in Chamonix. Going up to the Cosmiques hut today and will be leaving for the summit of Mont Blanc tomorrow morning. Cheers
Friday 20 August 2010
Mont Viso 3841m
After some heavy snowfall last week we had to find an alternative tour to Matterhorn this week. Mont Viso 3841m, is a mountain in the southern alps wich I've been wanting to visit for some time. It stands alone with the Ítalian flat to the east and the lower range of Queyras to the west. The east ridge 1000m, AD, was a really nice classic.
Mont Viso (Visible) with the east ridge clearly visible as the left skyline.
Wolfgang, Brian and Paul on their way to the hut.Tuesday 17 August 2010
Mixed climbing lately
Lots of different mountaineering and climbing lately. Monterosa massif, Mont Blanc and Ceuze have been some of the visited sites. Had a great summit push on Mont Blanc last week from the lift of aguille du midi in the morning. Did Three 4000 mt peaks from the Gniffetti hut with Wolfgang and clients. Also went down to Ceuze to do some sport climbing with friends. Today we are leaving for Mont viso, 3831m, in the south of Italy. Another new mountain that's been on the list for a while... ciao.
Wednesday 4 August 2010
Mont Blanc week
In the middle of a Mont Blanc week together with Wolfie at Mountain Spirit Guides. A while since i posted but I've been busy rehabing my runners knee, sportclimbing and also had a little trip to Val di Mello for some bouldering with Petra. Hope everyone is having a good summer out there and be safe...
Thursday 8 July 2010
Saturday 3 July 2010
Selected climbs in Chamonix
Working with mountain spirit guides this week and Henkki from Finland and I did a selection of fine routes in the area. 3 days of multipitch rock climbing in the Aguilles Rouges, couloir de la Table on Aguille du tour and finishing of yesterday with Arete de cosmiques. This kind of weeks are very welcomed in the summer since the amount of approach walks gets mixed up with easier days where actually the climbing itself is in focus. Henkki had some ideas about what type of routes he wanted to do and together we found a good balance during the week.
Henkki on the Arete du Cosmiques
Henkki in the couloir du table. Friday 25 June 2010
First Mt Blanc week 2010
Just down in the valley after 6 days of alpine climbing. Started off in Switzerland traversing over to France. Then a heavy schedule with Gran paradiso (4000 m peak in italy) and directly up to Mt Blanc. Working with Robbie Fenlon at Wilderplaces this week we had good weather and great clients from Ireland. 8 out of 7 clients made it to the summit and the additional summit guides where Matt Farmer (US), John Bracey (GB) and Neil Hitchings (GB). All the guides with Chamonix as home base. Cheers
Saturday 19 June 2010
Back in chamonix and updating!
Back in Chamonix after a trip down to Ceuse and some sport climbing. Had two great days down there with friends and when it started to rain we whent back up to chamonix. Managed to get myself a new project, Makach Walou 7c+. Great to start the season with some routes that kills you after a few metres... Before coming down to France I had a little vacaciones with my wife Petra. We went to Stockholm and bought a car, met some friends and relatives before heading to Bohuslän and the great crack climbing mecca of scandinavia. Tomorrow I will start my first Mont Blanc week of this summer and it's gonna be nice to "do some good" again..
Sunday 16 May 2010
End of season
Doing this winters last guiding day yesterday with six norwegian skiers from the Oslo area. We had skied the previous 3 days in Lyngen and now it was time to visit Ulstinden on the Tromso mainland. Great peak, with a nice view over Lyngen. A bit windy yesterday but with clear sky and good snow cover. The snow was sticking pretty bad to the skis on the way down but not slowing us down to much ; ) Now it's time to move south for a little vacation. Starting the summer season on the 20th of june. Gonna keep updating about climbs etc meanwile. Enjoy summer!
Anne-Kristine, Geir, Lis, Rickard and Kirsten checking out the water view on ulstinden..
Endre and Lis, packing up on the windy summit.Thursday 6 May 2010
Good times
Swedish Lyngen profile, Linus Johansson, came for a 3 day visit and we had three days to play.. Having some time, skiing with friends is nice and keeps motivation up and going. We met in Kjosen trying to get a boat for a little project but it was harder than expected so we skied a couloir on sultinden to start with. Warmth and lots of snow kept us from reaching the summit but we had a good run down the couloir. Sleeping at David's place (camp kviteberg) was nice and here we met some americans wich I briefly met earlier this month. Hooking up for two days, David, the american team, Linus and myself skied some new (for us) lines and mountains. Good atmosphere and cooking gave us some extra booze for the skiing. Cheers..
Today we skied from a col before taffeltinden down to Russedalen/Fastdalen.
Linus skiing down the couloir on Sultinden.Monday 3 May 2010
Skittentind Rando/Downhill
For 4 years the first of may means a randonne comp on Kvalöya outside tromsö. This year with a new downhill discipline. The randonne competition has grown over the years and this year 75 people in 25 teams started at 09.00. 1500 vertical metres and two peaks later they finished off the competition. 2.15 was the winning time. While the comp still was running me and 8 skiers for the downhill race started up the slopes, discussing the different tactics and safety along the way. The plan was to ski from the top rim of Skittentind and down to the little lake beside the goal area. When we stood at the top no one was aware of how fast this thing would go... all participants gave their maximum and put up a great show for all viewers. Thank you all for the speed and comittment to this thing. As the organizer of this thing I felt relieved that no one got injured and everybody skied with confidence and not taking unnescesary risks. Kristian kjerkreit finished the race in 3min and 34 seconds and will hold the official record until next year...
At the start..
Marius Martenson, guide, security guy and one of the many people who made this day a memory to many.
Helge preparing his skis and probably this made him fly past Lorentz on the flatter part before the finish.. Finishing as 2nd..Stetinden
The last day on last weeks guiding was a tour on Stetinden 920m together with the german gang. (30th april). After several days of snow and wind it was pretty exciting to see how the snowpack had changed. Some spots with huge deposit zones and other places, like on Stetinden, some powder on top of hardpack. The skiing was great and we finished the tour with a dinner on fiskecompaniet in tromsö.
Between Björndalstinden and Stetinden in the northern parts of Lyngen.
Helle putting in the last tracks..Wednesday 28 April 2010
Kvasstinden
This week a great bunch of german skiers is visiting and before the snowstorm started we skied the seldom visited Kvasstinden. Great summit, great people and a tour to remember for many reasons..
Thursday 22 April 2010
Ruossavarri = Powder
After three weeks of touring here in the lyngen alps the really good conditions finally arrived. Last week the "Willis bunch" from scotland got some mixed weather with some nice days in between the snow and rain showers. This week, with the swedish "friluftsfrämjandet", have been blessed with some of the best snow I've skied and clear blue skies. Yesterday we did one of my absolute favourite tours out here in Nord-Lenangen. Ruossavarri 816m at the tip of the lyngen peninsula held some great powder slopes with views from another world. Arrived by boat from the east side we made a traverse of the peninsula and skied great powder. Two days ago we skied the ultra classics storgalten 1219m and lille galten 836m in epic powder..
Niklas and Uffe on the Norther tip of Lyngen, just breathing is enough some times..
Joakim in front while the group is touring up from the little bay and beach in purkevika.Tuesday 6 April 2010
Skiing by boat
Today we organized with local fisher man Reidar to go around the northern tip of the Lyngen peninsula by boat. Sun from clear blue skies, no wind and excited skiers. Our goal was to ski from Gamvik but the conditions made us change our landing spot. A bit north we found a little bay with great access to the shore and Russelv fjellet 816m. The most northern peak in Lyngen gave us fantastic views and really good skiing in spring snow conditions...
Happy bunch on the top of Russelv fjellet.
Dennis and Suz in the morning sun.Monday 5 April 2010
Back in Lyngen
Came back to Tromso last week after a long drive from Chamonix and didn't get dissapointed. A couple of nice tours with friends to start with and then meeting clients yesterday. Staying in The north part of Lyngen this time and having great weather at the moment. Topping out today on Steinfjellet and had fantastic views. The skiing was a bit crusty due to high temperatures earlier combined with cold and clear nights at the moment. Tomorrow we're going on a little boat ride, looking for interesting birds along the way and more...
The Dutch bunch on the top of Steinfjellet..
Saturday 27 March 2010
Ski Week chamonix
Had a great last week of the alp season together with Benne, Henrik, Mattias and Martin from Sweden. We skied at the Grand montets, Aguilles du midi, Aguilles Rouges and Cormayeur this week and managed to a bit of skitouring as well. Thanks guys for a great week.. Now I'm of to Norway and the skitouring season in the Lyngen alps.
Martin on his board on the Envers du plan.
Mattias on the way down from aguilles du midi.Saturday 20 March 2010
Gran Paradiso skitouring
Spent last week skitouring in Gran paradiso national park with Henrik Wehtje and Rickard Von Horn. Gran paradiso has alot of snow this year and very few trax... Excellent huts and amazing weather gave us an extra ordinary week of skitouring. We travelled for six days from the valleys of val savaranche, val de rhemes and val grisenche. Reaching peaks everyday above 3000 metres that gave us unbelievable skiing in fresh powder and almost no people.. the high lights was the benevolo hut and amazing staff, Gran Vaudala 3250m, pointe galicia, the italian food and hospitality and more..
Rickard (first) and Henrik climbing the last metres to the top of Becce de Traverserie
Henrik making his way down one of many unforgivable runs this week.Sunday 7 March 2010
Back in La Grave
Back in La Grave for a couple of days... skid La vout with Daniel and Jörgen yesterday and had ok conditions. Resting today and the wind is howling outside. Looks like it's gonna clear tomorrow and stay cold and clear for a while.
Friday 5 March 2010
Col du Belvedere
Skiing the col du Belvedere today with John Minogue and Eva Eskilsson. Started off at Flegere gondola hoping for some powder skiing from the lifts. The conditions where not as expected so we started the tour to Belvedere right away. The wind had made some small steeper slopes a bit loaded on the traverse to Lac blanc but the snow felt good to the col. Surprisingly good conditions on the steep north facing slopes leading to the Berard valley. Finished in Buet at 11.30..
John and Eva with the mont blanc massif behind.
Stian Hagen was going to Encrenaz and gave us company in the morning.
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